This was a magical mystery tour! Sniffing it, we sailed sublimely up the Seine on an old-fashioned yacht and disembarked straight into a Parisian patisserie. After adding water, we left the crêpes, teacakes and custard-filled pastries behind and went into a barber shop – hair gel, moustache wax, spiced after-shave and leather razor strops. The neat palate was just crazy – chilli chocolate, a racetrack by the sea, chewing leather, chewing wood; fruity, herbal and spicy all at the same time. In reduction we got lemon meringue pie and salted crisps, with tongue-itching oak, leather and Turkish coffee on the finish.